A Quartet of Ravenswoods
Okay, before everyone gets all upset — especially the nice folks at Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma County — this is not a negative review: The collective noun for a group of Ravens is an “unkindness,” just as a group of beavers is a “lodge,” a group of lions is a “pride,” and a group of peacocks is an “ostentation.”
A little while back the Ravenswood folks sent along a sample of their 2006 Vintner’s Blend Petite Syrah. Petite Syrah, being one of those quirky Californians with an interesting back story, we gave this wine our full attention an awarded it a “brisk” of spades (three to be precise). Admittedly, the 2006 Vintner’s Blend Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay – which Ravenswood sent along for us to try in Janurary – are less up our alley than the Petite Syrah, but are nevertheless an excellent value for the two-Benjamin price. (That is, they are excellent recession wines.)
Here are the deets:
2006 Vintner’s Blend Shiraz ($10)
Rating: ♠ ♠ 1/2
The market has been so inundated with this popular varietal that we’re all getting kind of jaded to it. The Ravensood Shiraz is more or less typical of the genre, with lots of black fruit, spice and quite a little blast of hooch (13.5 percent). The surprise in this wine is in the hint of eucalyptus, which imbues it with a wholly Northern California twist (we presume there was a eucalyptus grove nearby). The finish is smooth and, with medium tannins, this wine would pair well with, say, prime rib, briskets and meat pastas.
2006 Vintner’s Blend Merlot ($10)
Rating: ♠ ♠ 1/2
While I’m not a huge fan of your typical Cali Merlots – they’re kind of like Shirazes only they peaked 10 years ago instead of five (we all remember that tell-tale scene in Sideways) – I try to hang in there. While the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend Merlot admirably performs the function of a big, brassy, rich supermarket Merlot, it also offers a refreshing lightness uncommon to type. I didn’t feel the corners of my eyes sagging with overmuch fruit after the second glass. And that’s a definite plus.
2006 Vintner’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon ($10)
Rating: ♠ ♠
At the outset, this is one of those Cabs that offer much too much too soon: cassis, oak, spice and earth. Generally we like a wine that develops on the palate is more defined stages. But, like the Merlot, it’s not as heavy as its counterparts. That is, it hits you up front with a punch but doesn’t leave you lying on the mat in a daze.
2006 Vintner’s Blend Chardonnay ($10)
Rating: ♠ ♠
When talking about Chardonnays, the word I fear the most is “buttery.” I prefer the far more austere Chardonnays of Burgundy. Sue me. It’s how I was taught. However the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend seems able to go there – that is, to butteriness – without overdoing it. Also, the citrus hints and nutty tones balance out the richness. This would be a good wine to bring to a Springtime party such as an Easter or Passover fête.







